In crescendo: the new Marni collection gains intensity as it progresses. It is made of forms created by twisting, slicing, draping, pleating fabric onto the body. Surfaces are obtained by decorating, embellishing, cutting, bonding different elements together. The severity of shapes and the colorfulness of painterly motifs merge in a counterpoint of ease and deliberate exaggeration. In the occasion of the label's 20th anniversary, the richness of diversity which is integral to the Marni aesthetic turns into a bold visual statement, strengthening the roots while propelling the spirit forward.
The progression draws an imaginary line from the organic and raw to the artificial and man-made. It starts from canvas and toile, plain and raw cut, to end up with a multiplication of embroideries, raffia appliqués, mirrors, crystals. The silhouette is vertical: defined by sculptural movements, clothes barely touch the body, swirling freely and asymmetrically around it. Outsized judo belts are tied at the waist, while elongated sleeves further enforce the tall, solemn line. The strictness of the plain, graphic tops is contradicted by the bright explosions of bonded pressed lacquered flowers and metallic touches on bonded leather blousons. Slices of chiffon are embroidered onto canvas to create dense flower textures.
The color palette builds up from hues of chalk, sand and charcoal to flashes of yellow, green, cyan, pink. Color is used as adornment. Fabrics have a firm, textural quality: cotton and linen canvas, raw silk, jacquard silk, double coated cotton. Prints explore the Marni world of flowers and geometries. Archive patterns are cut out and bonded into layered motifs.
Accessories carry an idea of utility. Sandals and shoes merge architectural shapes with technical details. Bags are folding zipper shoppers with resin handles, oversize duffles and shoulder bags with bonded leather appliqué flowers. Bijou progress from natural wood and resin collars and necklaces made of wooden beads covered in canvas to multiple-strand collars made of colorful technical ropes, resins and metal elements.
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